for James Merrill

1

In 1834, when Alexander Kinglake
stood by the banks of the Sava River,
at the frontier of the Ottoman Empire,
and bid farewell to his friends, he turned
and saw the border officer stride toward him
with his hand outstretched, asking once more
if he was ready to leave the civilized world.

He knew this man had been exposed to the plague,
that he lived in “a state of perpetual
excommunication” under the yellow flag
that hung above the quarantine station.
In that moment Kinglake paused to consider
how he was about to cross the boundary
between Christendom and the Orient,
between the righteous and ungodly, cleanliness
and disease, even between the living
and the dead. He saw great vultures wheeling
over the city on the other side:
this was Belgrade, but might as well have been
the port of en try to the underworld.
He saw the oarsmen waiting in the boat
and thought of the ferry across the River Styx
and of Charon, who was now approaching him
in the guise of the Austrian border officer.

He had prepared himself for his departure
“with nearly as much solemnity” as someone
“departing this life,” but now he felt
the sudden joy of being free at last
of “the stale civilization of Europe,”
of the “state of utter respectability”
which had imprisoned him in England.
He thrilled at the thought of being robbed
or murdered by fierce-eyed men in turbans.
He did not recoil from the border officer's
outstretched hand, but met it with his own
and gripped it firmly, ready to embrace
“the Splendour and Havoc of The East.”