I’m going to recount what happened as a simple sequence of events. It was the year 2001. Yanieb was eighteen and I was seventeen. We didn’t tell people we were together⁠—we didn’t call it anything⁠—but we were. We walked a lot, from one town to the next. We’d buy a few oranges and start walking, and we wouldn’t stop until we were somewhere else. On the way, we’d talk. I don’t remember exactly what we talked about, it’s been too many years, but we talked incessantly, perhaps about a future in which we could just keep walking, without any commitments to hold us back.

Her parents didn’t ask many questions; they let her roam free. Two days into summer break, Yanieb told them she was going away for a week and they just smiled and wished her a safe trip. My parents were less flexible. They wanted to know who I was going with, where we’d stay, and if there would be responsible adults around. So I lied, and Yanieb backed me up. We said we were going to a friend’s beach house with their parents. The truth was we took a bus to the Southeast, just the two of us. We wanted to see the pyramids. We wanted to camp out in the jungle, sleep in hammocks, eat beans and rice every day, and stretch our money as far as it would go. We wanted to see howler monkeys, quetzals, beetles of every conceivable color.

Our love was an act of resistance, a way of refusing adulthood. As long as it lasted, we could keep the game going. That’s what it was: a game that took different shapes. Sometimes I forbade the use of certain words⁠—for instance, ones that started with an a. Yanieb played along, kind of, though she quickly got impatient. She often said my games were boring, yet she always agreed to play them.

I have been dreaming about her, that trip, those games, for twenty-five years. Sometimes I wake up at dawn, thirsty, with a discomfort I can’t place. I go to the kitchen, turn on the light at the stove. I fill a tall glass with water. I drink it standing under the light, feeling the cold floor under my feet. And along with the water, unexpect edly, flows the memory of my dream: Yanieb on a bus, southbound, or in the jungle, walking down the path ahead of me. Or crouching in the milpa, the wind rocking the ripening ears of corn above our heads.

The camp sat between the town and the pyramids. It cost thirty pesos to spend the night if you brought your own tent, forty if you wanted a hammock. For twenty more you could have your bag kept in a locker. They didn’t warn you, but there were robberies. Things went missing. When you sat by the firepit at the center of the camp, eyes would study you in the night.

Europeans were abundant. I remember one couple, Italian backpackers, who had spent almost two months there. They washed their clothes in the camp’s sinks and hung them over their tent to dry. One day, the Italians heated water on a tiny propane stove and boiled hallucinogenic mushrooms until they started oozing a dense foam. Then they drank the concoction, smiling like cannibals, and spent the rest of the day with vacant looks on their faces, closely examining the native plants.